J.W. Anderson has of course become one of the badges of honour to capture if one truly wants to experience LC: M (London Collection: Men’s). Testament to this was the fact that 9.45am on a Sunday morning (show didn’t start until 10) his venue Yeomanry House in WC1 (the floor of which was covered in 3 inch deep purple wood chip) was packed with the best and busiest of buyers, scribes and generally cool sorts.
Anderson is known for pushing the envelope of menswear design, well actually more ripping it in half, coating it in leather and adding a peplum. This season was no different in terms of having the wow factor in terms of colour, shape and ornament.
There was something a bit “Space 1999” about the collection, with ribbing appearing on long cuffs, oversize collars and deep hems whether on sweaters, jackets or coats. Buttons, zip pulls and other adornments were all oversize and had that futuristic look usually created back in the 1970’s. A vanilla “coatigan” looked fresh worn with a teal skinny rib polo neck, whilst a chocolate leather belted trench with 70’s large revers had something of the Herr Flick about it bur remained super luxe (thankfully no mention of the fallen Madonna).
An overcoat in a soft velveted finish appeared in both pale sand and ginger/brown with matching zip roll neck and Anderson’s “coffee shop shade” stripe overcoat is sure to be a seasonal hit with banded stripes starting in darkest Columbian bean, through hazelnut latte, cappuccino, builders tea to hot chocolate white – you only get a oooh!
For gents not into the long line coats there were bomber jackets a-plenty which had a hint of Bay City Rollers mixed with Docker lads of the same era. Ginger brown suede with sheepskin appeared on fold over collars, turn back cuffs, hem details and covered “neck to navel” front plackets. Leather zip up bombers in tan, sweet wrapper purple and red all looked Pimp-perfect with their buckle size zip pulls.
The blouson shirt was back whether “over the head” or button down style with super long cuffs such as usually found on a dress shirt for cufflinks, but here taken seriously to the max. This slight gigolo homage was continued with ultra tight trousers that sprang into slashed-to-the-calf boots-cuts in black, black leather and ginger/brown all perfect to wear with Anderson’s horseshoe neck tailored jackets.
Keep an eye for the Mongolian wool knit scarves so sumptuously oversized with tassel trims – probably the best scarves seen on a bloke since Tom Baker’s Dr Who and that is an accolade.
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